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Hindustan Times Delhi
June 06, 2026
The world is obsessed with Peruvian, Filipino, Georgian, West African and Russian food. Why aren’t they on our menus? There’s a twist in this recipe
– Taranna Khetpal
Calling ceviche “raw fish marinated in citrus juice and spices” is a bit like describing the Taj Mahal as a marble building.
Technically correct, but missing the point. Because ceviche, enjoyed across South America, but particularly worshipped in Peru (they actually celebrate National Ceviche Day on June 28) uses super-fresh fish. The citrus marination, barely 30 minutes, is what breaks down the fish proteins, giving the raw flesh a cooked flavour but retains its delicate taste. Good ceviche typically has crunch: Raw red onion, coriander, toasted corn, and avocado or sweet potato, all sliced just so, so that every morsel balances texture and flavour.
Around the world, ceviche (and Peruvian cuisine) has been something of a phenomenon. In India, however, it’s hard to find outside of luxury-hotel restaurants and multi-cuisine menus. It’s the same with food from Georgia, Ghana and other West African countries, Russia and the Philippines — cuisines that are currently being celebrated around the world.
What’s holding them back? The recipe changes in each instance. Take a look.
With Peruvian food, the world is literally in the way. The country is halfway across the globe; so importing bulk ingredients by sea can take up to 50 days. This means that Peru’s famed potatoes — they grow 4,000 types — and dozens of corn varieties are impossible to transport cheaply. Indian potatoes, bred for neutral aloo-subzi, can’t absorb the spicy Huancaina cheese sauce.
Roxanne Bamboat, a food-content creator from Mumbai, ate at Lima, London’s first Michelin-starred Peruvian restaurant, in 2015. She was excited when an outpost opened in Mumbai in 2016. Disappointment set in quickly: Peru’s diverse produce was missing. “For restaurants already operating within tight margins, flying ingredients over 24+ hours is often economically unviable,” she says. Lima shut shop pretty soon.
This story is from the June 06, 2026 edition of Hindustan Times Delhi.
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Hindustan Times Delhi
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{ IN GURUGRAM }
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