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Hindustan Times Delhi
June 06, 2026
The love for gymkhana food is mostly fuelled by nostalgia. The modern versions taste better
– VIR SANGHVI

Now that the Delhi Gymkhana is in the news, perhaps it is time to talk a little about club food; not just the Delhi Gym cuisine but club food in general.
A vast mythology has grown up around club food, and Marut Sikka has even created a successful restaurant, Delhi Club House, around the great dishes of clubland. I don’t go to too many clubs, but people who regularly eat the real thing always tell me that Marut’s delicious versions of club dishes are far better than the originals.
This is not surprising, because I suspect that club food is more a state of mind than a specific cuisine of any great quality. To really enjoy it, you have to eat it in the club and even then, the idea of the dish is usually better than the dish itself.
This may be true of all clubs all over the world. The most famous club dish of them all, the Club Sandwich was not even invented in a club, but was probably created for passengers on American trains. There may well have been a great souffle served at Mumbai’s Byculla Club and the dhansak at say, the Ripon Club may be the best of its kind, but I am going by hearsay. And these stories are at least 40 years old.
This story is from the June 06, 2026 edition of Hindustan Times Delhi.
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